No CD drive. Now what?

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totalnoob

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I'm not really a fan of Linux; it never worked right or even at all for me, but I'd like to install some version on my old, old Compaq Presario on a dual boot basis against the probability that its Windows 7 will give out on me sooner rather than later, leaving me with a boat anchor.

The immediate difficulty is that the CD drive already gave out -- the door won't open and the tray can't slide out -- and the booting priority page in the BIOS does not include an option for a USB boot. The only choices there are hard drive, network, CD and floppy, as if floppies still existed in about 2010 or so when the computer was assembled. I'm not going to install a CD drive myself for about $40 on a 15 year old unit even though I really don't want to throw it out either.

Are there options for me to get some Linux dual booted?

I should note that I did a dual install with Linux Mint 17.3 back in 2017 and it turned out to be a disaster. It could not find the wifi dongle -- manufactured years earlier and working perfectly under Windows -- even after I followed the manufacturer's instructions to create a driver on a cut and paste basis. (I was able to get it going with an expensive relay device that received wifi and then patched the signal through an ethernet wire, but it was a jury rigged solution.)

In due course I tried to upgrade to Mint 19.3, hoping a current version would be able to find my dongle, but that turned out to be a disaster too. I didn't want to try a fresh install; I was not certain I could avoid a full disc wipe which would wipe out Windows (it happened to me before). And at the time, you could not jump an upgrade to a new full edition a year or two newer; you had to upgrade to each quarterly edition one at a time, ie from 17.3 to 18.0 to 18.1 to 18.2, like that. And each partial upgrade took a minimum of 6 hours, and more that that as a practical matter because at times it would stop along the way to ask for instructions, and if you weren't babysitting the unit, it would never proceed. But at other times, it would just allow 30 seconds or so to respond, and without a response the process might take some drastic and unwanted action like formatting the entire hard drive.

Somewhere along the way, after about 2 full days of upgrading, I came to a quarterly upgrade that took six hours to first simulate the upgrade and then tell you if it was possible to actually do the upgrade. Alas, I was told it was possible if I deleted 20GB or so of files (on a 30 GB partition), with no hint as to what was safe to delete to keep the installation going. I guessed right, I guess, because after 6 hours of deleting 20GB and 6 more hours of installing it did install (on Day 4 of the process) and I was then on to the next one, 19.3 as I recall, where I got the same instruction during the 6 hour simulation to delete 20 more GB with no hint what was safe.

By then I was not so lucky. Even though I was told the installation was possible, after six hours of deleting and six hours of installing, it apparently wasn't possible. I got all manner of errors and demands for passwords I never set, and ultimately it never booted and completely crashed. To this day, I have nothing.

Now with the pandemic over I was ready to try again but no CD and no USB options in the boot priority menu, so am I just stuck with 30GB partition of nothing and the potential to have to throw the computer out at any random moment?
 


Do you have another sata/ide/mfm/scsi port?

Burn a live CD to that hard drive, boot from that hard drive, and install to the other drive.

Option2. Remove your hard drive, connect it to another computer long enough to get installed. Put it back in the original computer.
 
My 2010 vintage Win7 box is a Dell, not a Compaq, but I'm having a hard time imagining a PC of that vintage being unable to boot from USB. Could it be that the Boot priority menu just doesn't list USB as an option unless there's a bootable USB device already plugged in? Just grasping at straws a bit.
 
Try a paperclip. Shove it into the hole (usually next to the eject button) of the optical drive (CD/DVD drive). It should manually eject. If not...

Here's a thought: Buy a cheap USB optical drive, problem solved.
$19 USD
This is the shortest distance between two points.


We can fix your optical drive (if the "door" is the only issue)...
NOTE: As it already says in my sig, I am not responsible if you break your machine

You'll need: Two Phillips (usually) screw drivers; a PH1 (the regular size) and a PH0 (the wee little one). I recommend a shank of ~100mm as too long is unwieldy AF and too sort is hard too reach things. Next a pry tool (it's essentially just a piece of plastic, but it's designed to open them clips without destroying your case. If you're desperate you can use a flexible flat-bladed knife but blunt it first or grind down a plastic ruler)
1. Note down your exact model is ??? so you'll need to find it either via the BIOS, Windows 7's "About This PC".
2. Search for a Youtube disassembly video. Make sure it's your exact model as "revisions" can occasionally throw a spanner in the works. Watch the video twice first if you're a noob.
3. Carefully disassemble it while watching (a third time) the video step-bye-step
4. Your optical drive is a quite small and flat compared to a PC one and they are flimsy. Handle with care... There should be a circular opening near the end where you can see a tiny gap almost covered by the tray. Now shove a paperclip into manual eject (near the eject button) as per the first suggestion. While holding it in place, shove a screwdriver (gently) into the gap. Gently lever it open.
5. Place the liveCD into the drive, close it, and reassemble the machine.
 
Do you have another sata/ide/mfm/scsi port?

Burn a live CD to that hard drive, boot from that hard drive, and install to the other drive.

Option2. Remove your hard drive, connect it to another computer long enough to get installed. Put it back in the original computer.
>>>Do you have another sata/ide/mfm/scsi port?

Doubt it.

>>>Option2. Remove your hard drive, connect it to another computer long enough to get installed. Put it back in the original computer.

Don't think this is possible. Installing an OS involves it finding out what hardware exists so it can use the right drivers. Installing on one computer and moving the hard drive to a second computer with much different and older hardware would not seem like it could ever work.
 
My 2010 vintage Win7 box is a Dell, not a Compaq, but I'm having a hard time imagining a PC of that vintage being unable to boot from USB. Could it be that the Boot priority menu just doesn't list USB as an option unless there's a bootable USB device already plugged in? Just grasping at straws a bit.
There's plenty I can't imagine but are true nonetheless. I very much doubt this computer would recognize a USB in its slot without just in BIOS.
 
This may be of some value:

BTDT, no help. The article is abo...]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09LXVV8P7[/QUOTE]
$19 USD
This is the shortest distance between two points.


We can fix your optical drive (if the "door" is the only issue)...
NOTE: As it already says in my sig, I am not responsible if you break your machine

You'll need: Two Phillips (usually) screw drivers; a PH1 (the regular size) and a PH0 (the wee little one). I recommend a shank of ~100mm as too long is unwieldy AF and too sort is hard too reach things. Next a pry tool (it's essentially just a piece of plastic, but it's designed to open them clips without destroying your case. If you're desperate you can use a flexible flat-bladed knife but blunt it first or grind down a plastic ruler)
1. Note down your exact model is ??? so you'll need to find it either via the BIOS, Windows 7's "About This PC".
2. Search for a Youtube disassembly video. Make sure it's your exact model as "revisions" can occasionally throw a spanner in the works. Watch the video twice first if you're a noob.
3. Carefully disassemble it while watching (a third time) the video step-bye-step
4. Your optical drive is a quite small and flat compared to a PC one and they are flimsy. Handle with care... There should be a circular opening near the end where you can see a tiny gap almost covered by the tray. Now shove a paperclip into manual eject (near the eject button) as per the first suggestion. While holding it in place, shove a screwdriver (gently) into the gap. Gently lever it open.
5. Place the liveCD into the drive, close it, and reassemble the machine.

This is doing it the hard way. The best case scenario for replacing a disc drive is 2 hours, if it fits and if the existing screws don't get lost or aren't rusted out. The $19 after-market drives from Microcenter and so on tend to be grey market and many of those products have no warranty and even no return address for the manufacturer somewhere on the other side of the Pacific Ocean. I had a particularly hard time with Microcenter which does not warranty many products and refers you back to manufacturers that don't seem real.

For $100 I can get a perfectly good new minicomputer from Amazon loaded with Win11, which will take it back if it doesn't work.
 
With the USB stick plugged in open the bios and see if it shows up under removable drives.

If so make the USB stick the first boot device or boot from the boot menu.

If only removable drives shows up with the USB stick plugged in than set removable drive as the first boot device.

Post make and model number of your computer you are wanting to install Linux on.
 
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Doubt it.



Don't think this is possible. Installing an OS involves it finding out what hardware exists so it can use the right drivers. Installing on one computer and moving the hard drive to a second computer with much different and older hardware would not seem like it could ever work.
The doubt expressed here is unfounded. One can be excused for such a doubt being not-so-familiar with linux.

The linux kernel has the drivers for most hardware included in its filesystem which enables a hard drive with a linux installation to be installed in one machine and then extracted from that machine and installed in a second machine which has different hardware, and linux will normally boot up. The kernel will detect the different hardware and load the appropriate drivers from its filesystem to work on that second machine. It's been commonly done here flawlessly on numerous machines.

The upshot is that, if it's possible to install from another machine, there's likely to be a workable result.
 
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The Presario desktop will not be USB bootable, It will not be UEFI and the CD drive will most likely be PATA not SATA

Likewise, If its a Presario laptop

I mentioned further back the Celaron CPU is a single core but has 64 bit coding, on further investigation the motherboard is only 32 bit
edit
Oh, and neither are USB bootable, so a USB/DVD will be no good.
 
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The Presario desktop will not be USB bootable, It will not be UEFI and the CD drive will most likely be PATA not SATA
@Brickwizard :-

Umm.....are you absolutely sure about that, Brian? I hate to contradict you, mate, but that's NOT entirely true.

MY old Presario desktop - from 2004, and one of the very last genuine machines assembled by Compaq themselves (before HP bought 'em out and ruined everything!) - would boot from USB. My even older Dell Inspiron 1100 lappie - from 2002 - would also boot from USB. It was one of the very first Dell generations to do so, because they were one of the first companies to adopt the then-new USB 2.0 standard for that year's Inspiron range.

(It's how I first got into 'our Pup'; Tahrpup 6.0.5-CE lived on a 16 GB SanDisk 'Fit' nano flash-drive for nearly 8 months...)

Sure, the Presario (an SR1619UK desktop rig) wasn't UEFI - not in 2004! - and yes, its MSI MS-7184 mobo was PATA/IDE.....but this was an AMD-based rig, with the very early Athlon 64 on Socket 939, and the RS482/SB400 ATI northbridge/southbridge combo. I don't know if that itself makes a difference - the OP's rig appears to be Intel-based? - but USB booting WAS around in the early 2000s, even though many manufacturers didn't adopt it until several years later.

This machine also seemed to be something of a hybrid, right on the point in history when manufacturers were beginning to adopt the SATA standard.....because in addition to the ATA connectors, the MSI board also had a pair of SATA ports! Only SATA 1, it's true.....but they WERE there, nevertheless. I used one of 'em some years later, when I had to eventually replace the tray-load DVD re-writer (the IDE cable was a complete PITA to route correctly.....and the SATA cables just made so much more sense. Speeded transfer rates up a notch, too.)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~​

I wouldn't like to say about the OP's machine, however. Compaq themselves were always known as a highly-innovative company, right on the cutting-edge of current technology.....but after they were bought-out by HP, the brand-name was relegated to just a model name in the sea of same-old, same-old models HP were churning out at that time, nearly 20 years ago. It was a sad end for such a unique, bleeding-edge company.

I'm not arguing the point. I'm simply relating what I know to be true from personal experience. o_O

(shrug...)

I can't link you to any online resources about the Presario; the last of them went offline nearly 3 years ago, and HP have a policy of removing documentation once it's 10 yrs old. I can, however, link you to a PDF copy of the original MS-7184 mobo manual, uploaded from my personal archives (the crap I hoard is simply unreal! :p )


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~​

@totalnoob :-

I'm pretty certain @MikeRocor is right. You don't get the USB boot option until a plugged-in flashdrive is detected. That's how it used to work with the Phoenix BIOS, anyway, but in your case I wouldn't like to say; your machine would have been built under HP's aegis, and at that point in time they were well-known for skimping & 'cost-cutting' left, right & centre!

Don't get me wrong; their stuff works well.....but don't expect a long lifetime nowadays. And HP's own BIOS/UEFI tends to be fairly "locked-down" & ultra-basic, with not a lot of user-adjustable options.


Mike. ;)
 
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are you absolutely sure about that, Brian?
Only from what i have read, this is probably a 2002/3 machine looking at the components or may even be what we use to call a parts bin assembly [whatever was available from stock ]
 
Only from what i have read, this is probably a 2002/3 machine looking at the components or may even be what we use to call a parts bin assembly [whatever was available from stock ]
Sounds about right.

I'm convinced the main reason that old Presario lasted as long as it did was down to Compaq's own near-obsessive attention to detail. Couldn't have been too many firms, even then, who would have specified Rubycon and Nichicon caps right across the mobo.

It was a PITA trying to get support for the board though. Because MSI made that board under licence for first Compaq themselves, then later HP, as far as they were concerned it didn't exist. They washed their hands of it the moment it left the premises. You could no longer get support from Compaq.....and HP have always been, how can I put it politely; "brush-off" artists where their hardware is concerned. You have an issue with it, they'd rather you dropped a ton MORE cash and simply replaced it with the next new model. Their forums will give you all the support you could want with the Windows software.....but good luck getting any help with faulty hardware diagnosis.

"Planned obsolescence". Disposable, throw-away goods.....it's the way of the world now.


Mike. o_O
 
"Planned obsolescence". Disposable, throw-away goods.
Reminds me of that other Great british brand, It was ok until they subbed out the construction of their desktop boxes known as TANDY towards the end mechanics started to call them,Tough AnD It's Now Yours

their audio kit for tanoy systems and department store music were rock solid.the last company i had a proper job with had one with the optional 8 track and they were still using it 8 years after I retired from there 2009] with the original 1970/80 tapes
 
There does come a time when a computer is just too old...sad but true.
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With the USB stick plugged in open the bios and see if it shows up under removable drives.

If so make the USB stick the first boot device or boot from the boot menu.

If only removable drives shows up with the USB stick plugged in than set removable drive as the first boot device.

Post make and model number of your computer you are wanting to install Linux on.
I am astonished but this worked. I put in a bootable USB (a non-intuitive job and a half using something called Rufus) with a downloaded iso of Mint which then had to be transferred using something called Etcher (another non-intuitive program and job and a half) and Mint loaded and installed.

Now the bad news, and a lot of it. Linux up to old trick of never failing to disappoint. No GRUB appeared (it did when I installed Mint 17 8 years ago); launched Mint without any chance of going to preferred Windows. GRUB setting not even offered during the install. No obvious way to change GRUB within Mint, prolly need some "terminal" with all the complex coding. Another job and a half.

Can anybody tell me how to get GRUB going again so I can get to Windows when I want to? Please don't include info about virtual boxes; this is a job and a half x 1000 and the complexity of trying to deal with two systems simultaneously is prolly the main reason almost nobody not a computer professional even bothers with Linux.

Also bad: a video I had on the Windows 7 side -- one that would have played with ease in 2010 when the computer was new -- caused a complete schizz out of Mint. The screen went to diagonal lines, essentially the Linux version of BSOD. Not good.

And also bad with good: while Mint 22 was able to find my wifi dongle, which Mint 17 was not and why I endeavored to upgrade, Mint 22 evidently cannot default to wifi off as Windows can. The wifi starts on once you locate your signal and stays on until you turn it off manually. This is not good for me as our son's x-box shares the signal and he will have discontinuity anytime I go on.
 
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